Sonoma County Barrel Tasting 2015

Epilogue
You know, sometimes things happen and you're so deep in the moment that you don't even realize it.  I started out lamenting the lack of enthusiasm I had for this event. I whined (no pun intended) about how I couldn't get fired-up about the tasting, about the traveling, about anything, really.  Looking back, though, the evidence belies the sentiment.  I'm a numbers guy (my friend says "just zeroes and ones"), so let's look at the numbers.

• I counted 136 bottles on the table, when I unpacked. 
• I spent over $4K in cash for all of the wine purchases (future or otherwise)
• I bought 172 bottles from eight different wineries.
• Looking ahead, I have 7 cases (84 bottles) that I'll have to pickup next year.

I think most people would call that a pretty good year.  I'm sure the winemakers are pretty happy with me, anyway! :-)

Sonoma County Barrel Tasting 2015

Day Three

Mauritson
Without a plan for the day, the only thing we were sure we were going to do was pickup our futures at Mauritson.  These guys can be hit and miss for me, year over year.  Some years, the offerings are flat-out fantastic and other years, a complete bust.  Last year was a great year, where we split cabs and zins with our friends, here. So, I had a little optimism for this stop this year.  Sadly, I was disappointed. Not only did the crowd not really bring the energy, but neither did the wines.  Don't get me wrong, there are some very competent wines at Mauritson.  I've enjoyed their Rockpile zinfandels over the years - they have a very rich, old vines quality about them, at times.  I was less than enthused, this year, though.

Pickup:
2012 Mauritson Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Rockpile Ridge Vineyard (Split a case @$38/bottle)

Cast Wines
Positioned up on the hill across from Dutcher Crossing, this is a new winery to the area.  Bought a couple of years ago, they're just getting established with a small tasting room on the property.  I'll confess that this was an intriguing stop.  The setup requires you to walk up the hill and pass through their processing barn to sample their barrel wines.  On the other side of the barn is a little barn and Adirondack chairs overlooking the valley.  They're not as high up the hill as Sbragia, but the charm isn't lost, for sure.

The wines here have a lot of really good potential, most notably their Petite Sirahs. On any given day, I don't gravitate toward PS, but these were nice.  They had a rich, full-bodied quality with good complexity and balanced tannins, but there was a little something missing.  I couldn't put my finger on it and the best I can tell you is that it's like driving KIA Optima. (Indulge me...)  It looks like a high-end car, the performance numbers are comparable, and the interior is nice, but when you drive it there's something about it that nags at you, reminding you that this isn't a Jag, or BMW 7-series, or a Merc.  That's how I felt about these Petite Sirahs and what made the feeling stronger was the price.  It was as if they were inflating the price to create the appearance of higher quality product.

My final thoughts on Cast Wines is that they'll be a really good producer in the DCV, but they really need to reign-in their prices.  They're anachronistic and that'll lead to their demise.

Sbragia
This is the stop we typically make to enjoy the scenery as much as the wine.  Sbragia has a good track record for quality wines. Our friends are club members here and I never fail to find a wine to enjoy here.  Their Monte Rosso cabernet is always a crowd pleaser, I've enjoyed the fruit forward La Promessa zinfandel on countless occasions, and their Home Ranch and Gamble Ranch chardonnays have been very drinkable.  Their appeal attracts the younger crowd, as well.  Expect to see hipsters pouring out of limos and buses, flooding onto the large patio...their designer jeans and sunglasses glittering in the northern Californian sun.  Of course, if you've read past blogs you'll know my feelings on these neophytes. That notwithstanding, everybody has a role to play in this world... And I value the energy they tend to bring to the event.

Sbragia had three barrels they were tasting: a Home Ranch Chardonnay, La Promessa Zinfandel, and a cabernet sauvignon (I can't remember the name).  All three were really nice and we were nearly compelled to buy the cab on futures. I think if we had been there with friends, it would have been a different outcome.  At any rate, it was a beautiful day and even if our palates were excited, the vivid colors of the valley were a nice consolation.

Recent renovations to the tasting room has really added some charm to the winery.  They've opened up the room with more casual seating (and less ubiquitous and gratuitous merchandising) and added a side room for tasting by club members. The tasting bar here is quite long to begin with, but it can still get two and three people deep during events like this.  Having the auxiliary tasting room for club members was a smart touch.

Joseph Swan
If you're even remotely familiar with the geography of the Dry Creek and Russian River Valley, you'll know that the trek from Sbragia to Joseph is no small thing.  It can easily be 45 minutes, depending upon traffic.  So, when we left Sbragia at 3:20 with the idea to try hit Joseph Swan before the event closed at 4:00, I was skeptical about our chance of success...but when I'm driving, I do like a challenge. :-)

We arrived at exactly 3:56, with a little life in our step to be the last tasting of the day.  From past blogs, you may remember that this can be a real wild card stop.  I compare it to that slot machine that you drop your last quarter in on the last day of your Vegas weekend, as you trudge out to the parking lot, on your way to the airport.  It's that last ditch chance to end the weekend on an uptick. I can't tell you the number of times we've done just exactly that, here.  And there have been times where we've heard the "quarters clinking in the pan".  As it turns out, this time was one of those.

Joseph Swan can be a borderline cult winery, with the occasional varietal that you can't pronounce with Google Translator!  But, they are only occasional and what's more common is some rich, flavorful zinfandels and syrahs.  There were only six wines being poured this year (most years are upwards of 8-10), but it was a nice offering, to be sure.  Over the years, I've either bought futures on their zins or syrahs, and this year, it was syrah. A 2013 vintage from Great Oak Vineyards, this is going to be a very, very nice syrah.  Our enthusiasm for the wine inspired the winemaker to offer us a taste of the same wine that he made by fermenting on the whole cluster.  (For those who are unfamiliar with the process, grapes are usually de-stemmed before being put into bins for the initial fermentation. The "whole cluster" process skips the de-stemming process and, therefore, draws some of the green qualities of the stems during initial fermentation.)  As expected, there was a "green" quality to the syrah. When you've been doing this as much as we have, you know how to recognize these things immediately.  In some cases, it'll carry a mild smell like funky green vegetables. Depending on the flavors that appeal to you as a wine drinker, this may or may not suit you.  I've bought cases of Novy Syrah that went through whole cluster fermentation, but then my tastes changed and I had trouble actually finishing them.  It's a very personal preference.  In this case, the Joseph Swan better suited me without the whole cluster fermentation, to the extent that we committed to an entire case.  These always end up being a good value at the futures price, but if you get your hands on it at retail prices, you won't be disappointed either. Our collection is composed of a lot of expensive syrahs, so it's nice to have a number of inexpensive ones when you simply want to drink a nice wine, and you want it to be a syrah, but you don't feel like analyzing the hell out of it to justify the expenditure.

Futures:
2013 Joseph Swan Vineyards Syrah Great Oak Vineyard (12) $21/bottle

Sonoma County Barrel Tasting 2015

Day Two
I still can't get out of the funk. I don't have the enthusiasm I use to and I'm having trouble finding it.  It was a very slow start to the day. I thought that a special breakfast and a stop at an old favorite winery might get me to change my attitude, so we got up early and went into Sonoma for breakfast at the Community Cafe.  It's one of those special finds that, if whether you're a foodie or not, is worth the extra effort, time, and distance.

Buena Vista (off the Wine Road)

Friday's first stop was actually in Sonoma, proper...Buena Vista.  Once again, the winery was under construction, but not so much that it ruined things.  They tore up the pavers in the courtyard and were in the process of replacing them.  I imagine they'll be done with it in a couple of months. The main building had undergone some minor renovations that really polished the place up.  The upstairs, which had been used as a small museum to the winery and the area, was enhanced by some new relics, and made more inviting by a small tasting bar for club members. Downstairs in one of the club tasting rooms, they replaced an old wood table with one made with onyx, backlit with LED lights. It was quite a special enhancement and one that would impress your friends if you made an appointment.

Sadly, however, the wines have lost the character and charm from years past. Let it be said that piss-poor management can ruin, not just the present day business, but future business, as well.  In a chat with some of the staff, I learned that the previous owners (prior to JCB) ran the vineyards they were pulling from into the ground. As a consequence, all of the old standards for chardonnays are no longer under contract (e.g. Swan Selection, Robert Young Clone 17, Pommard Clone, Dijon Clones, etc.).  Now it's new vineyards and, also sadly, a new style when it comes to chards. Given JCB's French heritage, you can expect that the chards are more acidic and minerally.

We did manage to leave with a mixed case, but at the end of the stop, I was deeply disappointed and have subsequently withdrawn from the club.

Inspiration Vineyards
Last year, this little winery (out in the warehouse district of the Santa Rosa, around the corner from my wine locker) gave us a couple of interesting surprises.  Their zins are light-bodied and a bit acidic, but their whites have some appeal. In this little warehouse location there are three winemakers and Inspiration (with their small volume, but broad offering) is the largest. I do like a good viognier and these guys do a nice one - even better at the futures price of $18/bottle.

The cabernet was another surprise and exceptionally valued at $30 a bottle on futures.

I tasted the Inspriacio last year (a viognier blend, of sorts) and was intrigued but not compelled. This year, the blend is slightly different and just enough to tip the scales in favor of a half case of futures.  As a white wine with a sexy mouthfeel, I'm actually looking forward to its release.

Of course, our satisfaction with the 2013 vintage of the viognier translated to the 2014 vintage which really rounded out our experience here.

Pickup:
2013 Inspiration Vineyards Viognier Russian River Valley (6) / $18 ea.

Futures:
2011 Inspiration Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon (6) / $30 
2014 Inspiration Vineyards Inspiracio  (6) / $17 
2014 Inspiration Vineyards Viognier Russian River Valley (6) / $17 ea.

Premonition Cellars
Well, since an old favorite didn't inspire me, I made my way to a new favorite.  Anthony has been making Pinot's for a few years, now, and he's starting to receive the recognition he deserves.  His 2012 Pinot Noir won Best of Class at the Sonoma County Harvest Fair, last year.  Emblematic of my decision-making prowess, I was there to pickup a split case of futures from last year.  Of course, that's not where the story ends, though.

As is usual, he was tasting the 2011 next to the 2012 and the 2013 (futures).  As it happens, I'm actually a bigger fan of the 2011 than the 2012, (which I also bought futures of, in years past) and as a consequence of this tasting restocked with another case of the 2011. ...but that's not where the story ends.

Upon tasting the 2013 vintage of his Pinot Noir, I absolutely lost my mind! Not only is this the best vintage he's produced, this is probably the best pinot I've tasted in recent memory!  Now, for the sake of economy, I often split a case of his futures with a friend of mine. This year, I was flying solo, but had his proxy to procure in his name. After tasting this wine though, I had to make a call (literally... I had to call him).  First, you should know that Anthony is "an artist" and, as such, lacks a little business acumen. In this case, he has historically (and stubbornly) underpriced his pinots.  He's marketing a premier wine that would easily retail for $40-$48 a bottle for $22 a bottle on futures ($38 retail)!  Every year, he and I have this discussion (and his wife supports my position) - he's dramatically underpricing his wine and he needs to fix that.  This is like buying Apple @ $70/share when you know it's worth $100/share.  For some, it can be off-putting because they think, "Hey, why is this priced so cheap? It must be crap."  People make judgments (right or wrong) based upon the price of things, so in a way he's hurting himself by being under-priced.  All that said, we greedily bought 3 cases of futures (2 for me and 1 for my friend) and wondered if we might be making a mistake not buying him out and selling the final product ourselves at the price it warrants.

In a nod to his ability to branch out, expand, and diversify his offering, he's tasting his latest creation of a full-bodied, full-fruit zinfandel. He's really on to something with it and I think the only thing he needs to bring it home is a little aging in American oak (which he revealed he's doing with his next vintage).  His first attempt is good, but with his natural talent, his next vintage will be great!

The Haul:
2011 Premonition Cellars Pinot Noir Russian River Valley (12) / $36 ea. (Way less than it should be)

Pickup:
Split case of 2012 Premonition Cellars Pinot Noir 

Futures:
2013 Premonition Cellars Pinot Noir Russian River Valley (24) / $22 ea. (Way, way less than it should be)

Bacigalupi Vineyards (off the Wine Road)
I'm regularly compelled by my "passenger" to try new places, but my general malaise on this trip made me a bit of a pain in the ass.  ...But, my absentee wine partners mentioned a winery whose name I was familiar with but didn't know that they'd started making their own wine. So, on a whim, we finished the day at Bacigalupi Vineyards.

Over the years, we've reveled in vineyard designated wines from various wineries: pinots from Armida, zinfandels from Williams Selyem, to name a couple. In fact, recently (just after the New Year) we had a party at the house where I opened a 5L bottle of 2005 Williams Selyem Bacigalupi Vineyard Zinfandel. A modest group of nine of us consumed the magical elixir in 2.5 hours.  It was awesome!

That said, naturally I was intrigued by what they might be able to do on their own. The vineyards had been in the family for decades, so they already had great stock to work with. Could they outperform the wineries they sell their grapes to?  Inquiring minds want to know...

While I can say it's a shame they're not a part of barrel tasting, I don't really think it matters that much. The wines they have to offer, while narrow in breadth, are really fantastic. We started with a signature chardonnay, as most wineries do...and that's when I lost my mind. This was it...the chardonnay for which I've been searching for years! Rich, full-bodied with a creamy butter finish that I'd long since believed the valley had stopped producing.  So many wineries these days will blend 60/40 oak-aged and stainless steel. This was all oak, baby and a perfect blend of new and 1-year old oak, but without the kind of toast that leaves splinters on your tongue.  This was the bomb!  I immediately set my guilt-free bottle price at about $48, but alas...I was to be denied.  Retail, this gorgeous chardonnay sells for $56 a bottle. Sigh...ppbbbbb... my ballon deflates.

Next on their list was a nice little pinot and while I found it to be delicious and competent, remember that I had just been spoiled by three spectacular vintages at Premonition Cellars, where I procured several cases for under $30 a bottle. There as a new standard by which pinots would be measured for the rest of the weekend and no one will measure up.

And then it happened...my mind was blown again.  This 2010 zinfandel was incredible.  Medium-to-full bodied, complex fruits of blackberry, cassis, with hints of tobacco and a touch of a peppery spice to balance it out. It easily exceeded my guilt-free price, so we put a pin in that one.

As petite sirahs go, there are those that have a bold tannic backbone that leaves an earthy, velvety finish in your mouth and there are those that are little more than dried dark fruits in their flavors with no tannins to balance, and certainly nothing that would pair with a blackened steak for which most petite sirahs are ideal.  This one, however, was the best balanced I think I've ever had.  A close second is a wine by Jessup Cellars grown out of Yolo, and the Freemark Abbey offering, right after that.  If you're not a lover of petite sirahs then I can understand your disinterest, but know this... If you're ever open to knowing what a PS should taste like, this is where it's at.  That said, I was in for quite a shock when I learned the bottle price and immediately I felt like someone had just put me on an emotional roller coaster.  A PS at $44 a bottle is definitely on the pricey side.

Now is a good time to mention that this vineyard has quite a legacy. It dates back to 1956 when Charles and Helen Bacigalupi bought the land and began planting vineyards. In 1973, 40% of the chardonnay grapes used in the award winning Chateau Montelena Chardonnay was purchased from Baciglaupi (made famous to the masses by the movie Bottle Shock).  Their son John married Pam Heck (of the Korbel family) and their twin daughters Katey and Nicole are both in the industry.  Nicole, in fact, (of the third generation of Bacigalupis) is a key figure in the operation of the retail side.  As I would later discover, that day there were 2.5 generations of Bacigalupis in the tasting room; Pam (Nicole's mother), Nicole, and the next generation growing inside of her.  Believe me when I say the pleasure was all mine as we were graced with having Nicole as our server, that day.  "Server" doesn't do it justice, really, but I'm at a loss for another label. She was bright, engaging, witty, with a Kristen Chenoweth quality about her and she personally introduced us to her family's legacy.  How do you label that...?

So, as we wrapping up the tasting and I'm considering what to purchase, in my mind I'm trying to find a way to justify the cost of the chardonnay that I really, really wanted.  I was torn.  I was seriously considering breaking my rule and dealing with the consequences of the guilt I might feel when I opened the $56 bottle in the future when I thought to inquire about their wine club.

Hazzah!! And there before me in the folds of the brochure was the answer!  One case, twice a year would yield me a 20% discount, which brought my chard into my guilt-free price, did the same for the petite sirah, and made the zinfandel an absolute steal!  But then I saw it... On the menu, but not open for tasting, the 2012 vintage of their zinfandel.  With a composite look of forlorn and wanton desire, I somehow charmed Nicole into opening the 2012 for us.  I was so happy she did, too! It's just as delicious as the 2010 with just a bit more complexity.  It'll age for years to come, but will still impress your most stubborn zin-hater with its complexity and accessibility.

While the day started with the death of an old favorite (and the resignation from the wine club), it concluded with a new old favorite and a corresponding wine club relationship. Nature does seek equilibrium...

The Haul:
2013 Bacigalupi Vineyards Chardonnay (3) / $48 ea.
2012 Bacigalupi Vineyards Zinfandel (3) / $41 ea.
2010 Bacigalupi Vineyards Zinfandel (4) / $33 ea.
2012 Bacigalupi Vineyard Petite Sirah (2) / $37 ea.

As a post script to this, Nicole was talking to us about an event that they're hosting on July 18th where they are pouring wines from all of the other vintners currently making wine with their grapes.  It'll be, without a doubt, the biggest vineyard designate tasting I've ever done or even heard of! Count me in!

At this point, it's time to call it a day... Mel's Fish and Chips for dinner and a couple of movies on my laptop means we've quit while we're ahead.

Sonoma County Barrel Tasting 2015

Day One
I don't know what it is... Maybe I'm older and my interests are changing, maybe it's a bit of attention deficit disorder, but I'm losing my verve for barrel tasting.  This year we had to go it alone because our friends had other priorities.  Maybe that's why I was borderline ambivalent to the trip. Whatever the reason, we went anyway, and I'll say that it wasn't a bad time, but we've had a lot better.

The itinerary was simple and pretty unplanned; we were going to be there the first weekend (Friday through Sunday) and we had to pick up last year's futures.  Beyond that, it was a fly-by-the-seat-of-your-pants kind of weekend.

Valdez Family Winery
The first stop on the Wine Road was actually planned. This is where you have to check-in to the event and pick up your glasses and wristband for the weekend.  Last year, the six of us did Barrel Tasting and it was a concluded that Valdez Family Winery was the best stop of the trip.  The wines were quite good and altogether surprising in quality and value.

The first barrel was a pinot and a very nice one, at that. It was followed by two zins (Botticelli Vineyard and St. Peter's Church Vineyard).  Both of the zinfandels were mere minutes away from being bottled (mid-April) and released (mid-August), so your risk on a futures purchase was quite minimal. Both had good flavor, although I would have preferred to have tasted the Botticelli Vineyard zinfandel, last.  It had a full-bodied inkiness to it that lingered in your mouth forever! It was at least 5 minutes and three wines later before I could taste something without that hint of black ink in my mouth.  In the end, we procured 6 bottles of the pinot and 3 each bottles of the zinfandels.  It was a nice stop, but not inspiring.

Futures:
6 ea. 2014 Valdez Vineyards Pinot Noir
3 ea. 2013 Botticelli Vineyards Zinfandel
3 ea. 2013 St. Peter's Church Vineyard Zinfandel

J. Keverson
Lisa and a friend bought a case of futures (Starkey's Court Zinfandel) last year, so we had to stop and pick it up.  For the price ($22/bottle), it was a very drinkable wine.  This year's barrel tasting was on par with last year's, but we weren't as jazzed (in general), so nothing came of it.  I will say that there are ancillary benefits to these events and J. Keverson reminded me quickly of it. The wine we were picking up (normally $30/bottle retail, $22/bottle on futures) was being sold as a special - 2 cases for $432.  It was better that buy one, get half off the next. It was tempting, but better judgment prevailed.

Pickup:
Split case of 2012 Starkey's Court Zinfandel

Skewis
I enjoy these pinots, I really do.  It was disappointing to withdraw from their wine club, but circumstances being what they are, it was prudent. Hank and Maggie are a wonderful couple and Hank makes several good pinots.  Most notably, the 2012 Lingenfelder Vineyard slipped into the top 100 wines of the year - by any measure a laudable accomplishment.  Their futures were tasting well, but the youth of the wines (and a little bit too much warmth) didn't give them their best opportunity to shine.  These wines will be good-to-great when their bottled and Skewis is on par for their prices ($40-$50 per bottle).  Even though I withdrew, I highly endorse their wine club (20% discount).

Sapphire Hill
Always a big stop, this year Sapphire Hill didn't disappoint.  And while it was energizing, it wasn't because of the futures.  Chris and Lisa are always so personable and given the opportunity, Chris will talk your ear off.  Don't get me wrong, it's usually a fascinating tale of recent transformations his winery has gone through (or is going through) and this time was no different.  I would regale you with his tales, but that wouldn't be fair... If you want to know the latest, you need to commit your own time to it. It's worth every minute.

Chris was tasting a chardonnay and his signature Merleaux out of the barrel, but that wasn't where the real gems were.  Don't get me wrong, they're fine wines, but his recent production of malbec, a new chardonnay, and his zinfandels are the stars of the show!

So, at the risk of beating a dead horse, I'm going to say it again... There are benefits to barrel tasting (and similar events) beyond the event's focus.  While there were only two wines being tasted out of the barrel, we left with 3 cases of wine, mixed with a bunch of his current releases. The D'Argento chardonnay was a full case purchase and a creamy, old school wine. The nose was full of bright melon fruits, but the mouthfeel was where it sold me.  The full body, creamy finish of the wine literally made your mouth water!

The zinfandels are varied but all showing very well. Admittedly, they haven't had a standard-bearing zinfandel like the "Q" since its release as a 2010 vintage, but The Saint, the Old Vines DCV, and the Cabochon Cuvee provide a broad, deep, flavorful offering of very enjoyable zins.  Of course, while I was there I was able to snake some 2010 Zafira, which if you've never had any, you've really lost out. There isn't a single wine I can recall that does a better job of pairing with food (in this case green enchiladas) than the Zafira.  You're screwed, though, because I snagged almost all of the last of it. For those of you who enjoy a little residual sugar in your zins, (ala Rosenblum) then revisit the 2013 vintage of Porky's 2.0.  It's very reminiscent of the early years of Porky's Patch (when Tim still owned the winery), but significantly improved and refined.

The real "jewel" hasn't even been released yet.  I've had my go at it before it was even labelled and it was a beautiful wine... Its name is the Sapphire Hill Red Beryl Pinot Noir.  A half of a case found its way into my possession and I'll be the better man for it!  I could tell you all about this wine, but I won't because that would be too cruel...you can't have it, yet...Anyway, it's all mine! {insert evil laugh here!}

The Haul:
2013 Sapphire Hill Chardonnay D'Argento  (12) / $24 ea.
2012 Sapphire Hill Cinque Gemma (3) / $20 ea.
2012 Sapphire Hill Malbec M Cuvée (2) /  $31 ea.
2009 Sapphire Hill Pinot Noir Red Beryl (6) /  $40 ea.
2012 Sapphire Hill Zinfandel Old Vine Dry Creek Valley (3) / $29 ea.
2013 Sapphire Hill Zinfandel Porky's 2.0 (3) / $20 ea.
2010 Sapphire Hill Zinfandel The Q (2) / $60 ea.
2010 Sapphire Hill Zinfandel Zafira Sonoma County (6) / $28 ea.

Truett Hurst Winery
The Red Rooster Zinfandel showed well at last year's event, enough that we purchased a half-case. While picking it up this year, we sampled their latest offerings (among which was the Red Rooster) and was very tempted to repeat last year's performance.  It was a quiet day at TH and instead of succumbing to our impulse, we took a walk down to the river and milled about for a while. Returning to the barrels and retrying the wines, we changed our mind.  There wasn't anything wrong, it just wasn't as compelling as it was last year.

The three wines they were tasting included 2014 vintages of Luci Zinfandel, Red Rooster Zinfandel, and Black Sheep Pinot Noir.  I'll be frank, they were all really too young to be tasted out of the barrel for me, and at the end of the day, that's why I passed.  Bottled, in a year, these will be solid purchases, I'm sure.

Pickup:
2013 Truett-Hurst Zinfandel Old Vine Red Rooster (6) / Cost: average $27 / total $162